Livermush! - Carolina Country
Feature Story
October 2014

Livermush!

Ground hog meat and liver, spices and cornmeal. Yum!

By Carole Howell

Livermush!

Combined, the words liver and mush do not sound particularly appealing, especially for those people new to North Carolina's livermush region. For those who dare to try it and like it, or those like me who were raised on it, the mere mention of this old-timey delicacy draws an enthusiastic response.

Livermush is a mixture of ground hog meat and liver, spices and cornmeal. It probably came south to the North Carolina mountains and piedmont with German settlers from Pennsylvania. Similar to the more familiar scrapple, generations of families have been making livermush along with their homemade sausage and smoked hams.

Sliced and fried alongside eggs for breakfast, or as the centerpiece of a sandwich with mayonnaise or mustard, you can find livermush on the menu in western and mid-North Carolina, a little of South Carolina, and parts of Virginia. Suppliers are Mack's Livermush and Meats in Shelby, Jenkins Foods in Shelby, Neese's Country Sausage in Greensboro, and Hunter's in Marion.

Roy and Gurthie Hunter started Hunter's Livermush in 1955 for the customers of a local, independent grocer. They perfected the recipe through trial and error, and within a few years the couple was making and distributing their own brand, with children Jerry, Carolyn, Louise, and Phyllis, providing a lot of the elbow grease.

Livermush

Fitzhugh McMurry of Fallston, Cleveland County, uses a family recipe and years of experience to turn pork scraps and liver into livermush, a regional delicacy.

"I remember that we cut the livermush in blocks and wrapped them in plastic," eldest daughter Carolyn Hunter Johnson told me. "We sealed the plastic on a clothes iron turned upside down. My job was to wrap the blocks in paper."

Today, Hunter's Livermush produces 20,000 pounds every week for customers of stores in five counties. Two mornings a week it sells directly to the public at its plant on Poteat Road in Marion.

On a much smaller scale, Fitzhugh McMurry, along with his cousin, Joe Workman, make about 30 pounds of livermush every week in the back of his country store. McMurry Store and Farms is on NC 18 in Cleveland County, at the only stoplight in Fallston. McMurry keeps enough fresh livermush, sausage, bacon, hams and sidemeat in his meat case to satisfy a swarm of regulars and any others willing to drive to the country for a slice of heaven.

McMurry invited me into the back of his store where he already had 25 pounds of lean, meaty shoulder scraps and liver tenderized in a tall stewpot. While I watched, he ground the meat and returned it with the hot broth to the stove to get ready for the second step in the process: adding the cornmeal and spices to make a savory, mouthwatering mixture.

Like many of his generation, McMurry was born at a time when many families still grew and preserved vegetables and raised all the meat for the family table. The recipe is his mother's, but like many great country cooks, he doesn't need any measuring cups. He used his years of experience to gauge the right amounts of red pepper, black pepper, sage, salt and brown sugar; no two batches ever exactly alike. Using a long wooden paddle, he slowly worked in white cornmeal a small handful at a time.

"Listen to the bubbles," he said. "When they start talking back to you, it's ready. Hear it?" Sure enough, the bubbles began to hiss and pop with steam and the mixture began to pull away from the side of the pot. He spooned out a taste for me, and poured the rest into a large rectangular pan for cooling and slicing.

All Livermush, All Day

Marion Livermush Festival. First Friday in June, free livermush sandwiches, live music, livermush eating contest, pig races. (828) 652-2215

The next day my husband volunteered to drive the 30 minutes back over to Mr. McMurry's store to buy a large block of that livermush. It fried to a crunchy golden brown and disappeared quickly along with the scrambled eggs, hash brown casserole, and biscuits and molasses I served for supper that night. For us, that's hog heaven. 

About the Author

Carole Howell is an independent writer and amateur muscadine grower in Lincoln County. You can read more about her at walkerbranchwrites.com

Comments (37)

  • How long will fresh made livermush keep in the fridge ?

    Lori |
    December 23, 2017 |
    reply

  • I love my livermush a little on the thick side and not as crispy as most folks. I mix a little mayo and mustard together for the sauce and make a nice sandwich.

    Kris |
    July 16, 2019 |
    reply

    • You can keep liver mush indefinitely if you freeze. However, there’s a trick to freezing liver mush slice and put wax paper between slices, wrap in foil and freeze. When ready to use, do not thaw, heat skillet and place frozen slice in pan and enjoy.

      Deborah |
      August 06, 2023 |
      reply

  • I would like to order some Livermush and send to Florida can you do that

    Joann cox |
    March 27, 2020 |
    reply

    • We did a little research and found a few NC livermush producer, but we do not know if they deliver.

      Hunter’s Livermush, Marion, NC
      (828) 652-7902

      Mack’s Livermush and Meats, Shelby, NC
      704-434-6188

      Jenkin’s Foods, Shelby, NC
      (704) 434-2347

      Carolina Country |
      March 27, 2020 |
      reply

    • Neese's is the only one who delivers, and you can order online. It cost a fortune in shipping, and doesn't freeze well. S. Clyde Weaver in Lancaster, Pa makes a "scrapple" that is a great livermush. It freezes well, cooks up perfect, and is all a livermush fan could ask for, including the price. It ships fast.

      loy e hoyle |
      May 20, 2020 |
      reply

    • About a week, I would buy small blocks, it doesn’t freeze well either, we live in Florida but grew up in Hickory NC, we tried to buy a lot an bring it home to freeze but when thawed it changed the way it taised

      John Sipe |
      April 15, 2023 |
      reply

      • If you cook it first, then freeze it, it doesn't fall apart, I grew up in Waco NC, but moved to LA and now we live in SC, but they don't sell it here, I always bring a few packs home and I cook it all at one time and then lay it on a pan separately and once it's frozen I put it in freezer bags, then you just have to heat it.

        Sherry Hobby |
        May 08, 2023 |
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  • I have been making homemade livermush for years with my mama. Doris Ramsey. She can make the best livermush ever. She cooks out the heart liver lights and melt separate. Then she cooks the head meat out. Grinds it all together and uses the juices out of head meat with cornmeal flout salt sage black pepper and a little red pepper. Stir a lot. Makes best livermush ever.

    Dale Ramsey |
    February 21, 2021 |
    reply

    • My mom used to make this and called it Liver Pudding. I had been looking for a recipe for years after she pasted. No one knew what I was talking about. Now I know Livermush! I wish there was someone who sold it here in VA.

      Trisha Z Nichols |
      February 01, 2023 |
      reply

  • I want to buy some liver mush please

    Joann Cox |
    February 22, 2021 |
    reply

  • Hello. Thanks for wanting some livermush. But we have already gave that batch away. Sorry. Dale Ramsey

    Dale Ramsey |
    February 26, 2021 |
    reply

  • Sorry already gave that batch away. Dale Ramsey

    Dale Ramsey |
    February 26, 2021 |
    reply

  • I would like to have some Livermush to a couple ppl in KC Missouri. Is that possible?

    Feni |
    March 07, 2021 |
    reply

    • Jenkins is the best imo but it doesn’t freeze well, when thawed it falls apart and the taste changes, I live in Florida as well, we just have to make a trip now and then

      John Sipe |
      April 15, 2023 |
      reply

  • I grew up eating liver mush but now live in Panama City Florida, I would love to order a few pounds and don’t mind paying top dollar, anyone want to ship some south?

    Todd |
    March 30, 2021 |
    reply

    • I would love to have some but we are in deep south Texas, too much distance between us.

      Patti Barrett |
      September 08, 2021 |
      reply

  • There is a place in Marion NC called Hunters Livermush. I don't know if they ship or not. It is really good. Dale Ramsey

    Dale Ramsey |
    March 30, 2021 |
    reply

    • Hunters used to be the best the younger one took over the business I think and ca handed the recipe. It was the best . No longer it is. The competitors brands are just as good if not better

      Gary Lane |
      July 11, 2021 |
      reply

    • Through the years I contacted all of them that make it and none ship except Neese's and they literally charge an arm and leg to ship it. I can't afford to pay it. The last time I checked they wanted almost 200.00 shipping for about 6 packs of liver mush.

      Patti Barrett |
      September 08, 2021 |
      reply

      • If you order sausage (or bacon) with Neese's Liver Pudding or Livermush, I believe it only cost around $20. That way the sausage and/or bacon will be frozen and they don't need to overnight express ship it. Neese's has the beat sausage too, so I order those 2 items. Call Neese's and they'll tell you the ratio needed to order to save on the shipping!

        Pam |
        November 07, 2021 |
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        • I know the folks at Neeses. They are really nice

          Dale Dale Ramsey |
          November 16, 2021 |
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  • I live in NC and grew up on livermush. With that being said, I haven’t had livermush in year’s because I no longer eat pork. I miss eating it very much. Do any of these suppliers make or be willing to produce a product that would be an all beef product? Beef liver, beef byproducts and beef fat? Thank you

    Kimberly D |
    June 13, 2021 |
    reply

    • Would not be the same at all

      John Sipe |
      April 15, 2023 |
      reply

  • I'm from NC, grew up eating liver mush and MISS IT SO MUCH! About 25 years ago we moved to deep south Texas (20 minutes to Mexico border) and I'm old now and would LOVE to taste it once again. I even dreamed of eating a liver mush biscuit one night. It's a shame it would cost me about $200.00 to get just a little shipped. :-(

    Patti Barrett |
    September 07, 2021 |
    reply

  • Just go out and kill some wild hogs in Texas and make some. I did not know it cost so much to ship. I know the owner of Neeses. He is really nice.

    Dale Ramsey |
    September 09, 2021 |
    reply

    • If I could I would but I'm 70 and my husband is 71 and we both have health issues so hunting hogs in this oppressive heat/humidity isn't an option.

      Patti Barrett |
      September 09, 2021 |
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  • So sorry you can't get out and hunt. I really wish there was someway to get you some livermush. We had a men's breakfast last Saturday morning and had sausage bacon livermush eggs grits biscuits and gravy. Then the preacher spoke to us. It was outside and awesome.

    Dale Ramsey |
    September 14, 2021 |
    reply

    • It sounds wonderful. I would have savored a livermush biscuit. Think of me next time you eat livermush. Have a blessed day and stay safe.

      Patti Barrett |
      September 15, 2021 |
      reply

      • You should try a cold livermush sandwich with yellow mustard

        John Sipe |
        April 15, 2023 |
        reply

  • Desperate to find some Livermush (will accept any brand) or Neese's Liver Pudding! In Florida now, will be heading to Kansas soon. We need some to take to our family in Kansas. Hope we can locate some within our reach on our trip!

    Pam |
    November 07, 2021 |
    reply

  • Most grocery stores west of charlotte will have it

    John Sipe |
    April 15, 2023 |
    reply

  • I was 8 years when we moved to Greenville SC, just 80 miles from Gastonia NC. We had Liver mush for breakfast all the time in NC. It seems like 80 miles wouldn't be that different in language or food or customs,(not so much), but I'm sitting here thinking of livermush 50 years later. I'm going to find some!!

    Cynthia Hartsell |
    September 20, 2023 |
    reply

  • I grew up in Waco, North Carolina eating Liver Mush too, when I got married we moved to Louisiana and then to South Carolina, in Louisiana they had Hog Head Cheese which sounds disgusting, so I never tried it, in South Carolina they have Country Pudding, but it doesn't look appetizing, so when I go back home to visit I buy a lot of Liver Mush, they trick to freezing it is to cook it first otherwise it will crumble to pieces, I hope this helps. Also the Liver Mush Festival is 10/21/2023 in Shelby, NC

    Sherry Hobby |
    September 21, 2023 |
    reply

  • I grew up in Lawndale NC and was reared on livermush. JENKINS and MACK'S
    I have unfortunately developed an allergy to corn. I can no longer eat grits or cornbread but was wondering if rice grits could be utilized instead of corn meal. I have enough aunts who are older that I can get a recipe. Any thoughts ?

    Bonnie |
    October 17, 2023 |
    reply

  • Well we are pert near neighbors..I am from Golden Valley. I would sure try those rice grits. Put a little plain flour. Salt and pepper . You might want a little garlic powder. Stir the heck out of it.

    Dale Ramsey |
    October 18, 2023 |
    reply

    • Thanks..I will.

      Bonnie |
      October 26, 2023 |
      reply

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